and the Alps which intervene, and seem to support Monte Viso.

The descent into the valley I found, in some places, scarcely less fatiguing than the ascent, though it was accomplished far more expeditiously. As I returned through Luserne, I was struck on observing that the streets, which had been so thronged in the morning, were completely empty. Not an individual was to be seen going from one house to another. I reached La Tour a little before dark.

July 20th.-My only excursion to-day was to St. Jean, where I spent the afternoon very pleasantly at the presbytère, in company with the Professors Revel and Malan, whom Mons. Bonjour had invited to meet me at dinner. A variety of topics of mutual interest, which I need not here specify, occupied our conversation, the discussion of which not only supplied me with fresh proofs of the piety and intelligence of those gentlemen, but also with much valuable information. After dinner, we were served with coffee on the balcony, from which we had a fine view of the village and the valley below, with the isolated volcanic-looking cone of Cavour, at the commencement of the plain, the town of Luserne, and the mountains beyond. What particularly interested me was the merest speck of the snowy pyramid of Monte Viso, appearing in the blue sky, between two of the rugged crags of an intervening mountain.

CHAPTER VII.

Sabbath in Angrogna-Morning service at Serre-Sermon by Monsieur Revel-Baptism-Infants baptized by the ancient VaudoisMode-Appearance of the Congregation-Accommodation-Insignia of the Vaudois-Funeral-Second service at St. LaurentCatholic interruption - Prayer-meeting-Desecration of the Sabbath,

Lord's day, July 21st.-INSTEAD of worshipping with the Vaudois congregation in the parish church of La Tour, I preferred accompanying Professor Revel to Angrogna, where he was to officiate for the day. We commenced our walk about eight o'clock, and, after crossing the Angrogna torrent, proceeded up the gorge through which it emerges a little above. the Catholic convent. The journey was one continued climb almost the whole way; but, as we were on the side of the mountain opposite to the sun, and had the advantage of the splendid chestnut woods with which it was covered, we experienced comparatively little inconvenience from the heat. The toil of the ascent, however, soon produced a copious perspiration, and although the walk did not occupy more than an hour, I felt not a little fatigued by the time I reached the presbytère of St. Laurent, near to which the church of the same name is situ

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ated. The scenery through which we passed was sublime and lovely, occasionally presenting to view immense rocks and profound chasms along the torrent below us on the left, but it burst forth into all the beauties of mountain landscape as we prosecuted our walk farther up to the church of Serre, in which the former of the two services was to be performed. The ruggedness of the rocky glen gave place to the varied terraces of chestnut, walnut, and cherry-trees, along which the pathway winded; and, in many places, I could have imagined myself taking a promenade in the walks of a nobleman's park in England, rather than traversing the mountain districts of Angrogna.

As we arrived at the church, we had to pass through crowds of the Vaudois, who were exchanging salutations and communications with each other, many of the latter of which doubtless had reference to the occurrences of the past week. This practice of loitering about the church-doors till after the service has commenced is, I was sorry to learn, too common in the valleys, as it is in many parts of my native country. It may, in some measure, be accounted for on the principle, that this occasion is the only one on which most of the people have an opportunity of meeting each other; but it unquestionably argues the absence of a due sense, in those who indulge in it, of the importance of Divine worship, and of the sanctity of the sabbath. Some of the pastors have endeavoured to do away with the scandal, but bad habits are not easily reformed, especially if there be the

MORNING SERVICE AT SERRES.

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absence of the true spiritual principle to which an appeal can be made. In the course of a short time the church filled, though it was not crowded, owing, I was told, to many of the inhabitants being away in their distant summer châlets upon the mountains.

The service was begun by the regent, who ascended a desk in the table-pew before the pulpit, and read the first three chapters of the Epistle to the Ephesians, subjoining at the end of each, the words, "ici suivent les observations," and then read the practical reflections of Ostervald, whose large folio Bible is used in all the Vaudois churches. He next read the Decalogue, and concluded with the substance of the law, as given by our Lord, Matt. xxii. 37-40.

The minister then ascended the pulpit, and read the following confession of sins, the people all standing:

"O Lord God, eternal and almighty Father! we confess and acknowledge before thy holy majesty, that we are miserable sinners, conceived and brought forth in sin and corruption, inclined to what is evil, and unable of ourselves to perform any good; and in divers ways do we transgress thy holy commandments; whereby we have incurred, through thy righteous justice, condemnation and death. But, O Lord! it is occasion of deep sorrow to us that we have thus offended thee; we condemn ourselves and our iniquities in the exercise of true repentance, and pray that thy grace may relieve our misery. Be pleased then, all-gracious God, Father of mercies, to take pity upon us, in the name of thy Son, Jesus Christ our Lord.

With the pardon of our sins grant to us, and daily increase in us, the influences of thy Holy Spirit; to the end that we, heartily acknowledging our unrighteousness, may be affected with that sincere sorrow which shall destroy sin within us, and produce the fruits of righteousness and holiness, that shall be well pleasing in thy sight, through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.'

He next gave out some verses of a psalm, which were sung by the congregation sitting, each having a psalm book, with the musical notes under the lines. They joined in full chorus, and sang with good taste, evincing that they are not only fond of sacred music, but that they are diligent in its cultivation. The tune was plaintive in its character, and required the pronunciation of the mute vowels at the termination of words, as is customary in the Protestant psalmody of France. When the singing had ended, the following prayer was offered :—

"O Almighty God, our heavenly Father! we beseech thee, that, according to the promises which thou hast made, that thou wilt be in the midst of those who are gathered together in thy name, and that thou wilt hear us whenever we call upon thee in the name of thy Son, so it may please thee to look down upon us in thy mercy, and to raise our thoughts and desires towards thyself, that thus we may render to thee at this time an acceptable service.

"Great God! we humble ourselves before thee; we adore thine infinite majesty; we celebrate thy wisdom, thy power, and thy goodness, which shine so